Most travelers either love India or hate India. Which is expected, India is the ultimate test for a traveler. Anyone who’s traveled beautiful India has earned my respect. India is probably the most intense, exotic, & chaotic destination, it is also probably the most beautiful, culturally rich, and interesting destination. India is not for the faint of heart and in order to love your trip to India you will need to be prepared and have your expectations set. This is not a specific travel guide but a mental prep guide. If you’re interested in traveling to exotic places on a tour check out my upcoming tours

1.) Why people hate India

I can understand why some people hate their trip to India, but I usually think they should blame themselves for not being prepared nor having their expectations reasonably set. Let me fire off some standard hates about india; constant beeping horns, pollution, sewage stench, hustlers, poverty, beggers, lack of personal space, Delhi belly, & culture shock. I find beauty in this chaos and am able to take the good with the bad and see past the worst parts. India wouldn’t be so beautiful and exotic if it weren’t for it’s vast contrasts of extreme.

2.) Why people love India

I really think everyone needs to travel to India once in their lifetime to experience it first hand. It was the most eye opening experience in my life, and it was the start of my wanderlust. I compare someone traveling India to someone banging china white heroin. After going to India, a summer holiday to the beach is not gonna scratch the itch. Just like a pint of beer is not going to scratch the itch of a heroin addict. Disclaimer* I have only read about heroin and never done it-just a metaphor. Some general reasons people love traveling India; exotic, extremely cheap, so much to see and do, low crime rate, friendly locals, untouched villages, huge geographical range from Himalayas to desert to oceans, world class health care, yoga, rich culture, and amazing food. There is good reason you hear of so many cheesy life changing quotes about traveling to India… they are true.

3.) Who should travel to India

Most importantly, someone who is willing to get out of their comfort zone and can handle/enjoys culture shock. You can be a hippy budget backpacker or a retiree luxury traveler as long as you’re excited to challenge yourself to get out of your comfort zone and enjoy some good ole culture shock, you’ll be fine. Some other helpful traits; Adventurous, every day in India is an adventure. Whether doing a mundane task such as buying a train ticket or a highlight of visiting the Taj Mahal. Patience, travelers from the west’s patience will be tested in India, nothing is on time and everyone over promises and under delivers… you can’t get frustrated and need to have your expectations set that this is the standard in India. My patience was tested most by the lack of personal space when Indians queue in unorganized lines. I could go on and on, but you get the gist of the general attitude needed for this type of trip.

4.) First timers

There is nothing quite like the culture shock from the first time stepping foot into India. I highly recommend for your first time to join a group tour. Tours in India are generally very cheap and only marginally more expensive than trying to travel independently. It is not worth the headache of trying to do it yourself the first time. At least join a tour for your first week or so and then it will build your confidence to independently travel. The guide will help you gain confidence navigating India, dealing with hustlers/beggars, and provide a better understanding of where to eat to avoid stomach issues. First timer’s should also not plan a jam packed itinerary, take it slow in India… If you are planning to bounce from city to city every 2 or 3 days you are going to get absolutely burned out because less is more, take is slow. Don’t only visit the big cities. Take a desert or jungle safari. Visit the Himalayas or beaches. Experience village life, India’s true beauty lies within her villages. There are great things to see in the big cities, but they are overwhelming and it’s worth mixing in some nature and village life. Take the stereotypical head wiggle with a grain of salt, it’s tough for a westerner to comprehend but it can mean yes, no, maybe, or idk… if you’re savvy enough after a week you’ll start to pick it up and even start to do it yourself-it’s very contagious!

5.) Best destinations for first timers

India is a huge subcontintent that ranges from the Himalayas to the tip of the Indian Ocean, with many different geographies and cultures. There are 28 states in India and each has a unique identity/dialect. It would take a lifetime to see it all. I recommend sticking to one region of India and taking it slow. Most first time travelers want to visit the highlights of the “golden triangle”( Delhi, Agra, Jaipur). Most travel guides and online resources will recommend the Golden Triangle but in my opinion it’s best to save for a second visit. Yes, this is an easy well connected triangle route to do in a short period of time and you will see the Taj Mahal, but I have found the more touristy the place the more aggressive the hustlers who make their living off tourists. So best to try and get off the well trodden tourist trail or have the help of guide in Delhi and Agra. Consider visiting Karnataka and/or Kerala over a couple weeks to see the highlights which include; Flying into Bangalore, Mysore, Bandipur National Park, Kerala Backwater, & Varkala. I truly believe it’s best to visit the Southern states of India for one’s first visit as these are the least chaotic states in India, but it’s still India… just not Mumbai, Varanasi, or Delhi levels. . Some other recommended places are flying into Mumbai and slowly traveling south down the coast from the beaches of Goa to the backwaters of Kerala down to Kochi/ Varkala. Consider visiting the Punjab and Himalayas, from the Golden Temple in Amritsar to the Tibetan city of Dharmsala in the Himalayas. A little more intense than the previous mentioned recommended destinations, but still doable is train travel in Rajasthan. Rajasthan has beautiful medieval fort cities in the western desert region of India that are well connected via railway infrastructure. I would recommend including lesser visited Rajasthani cities and including a desert safari & a village home stay. Some examples of lesser known but better places in Rajasthan are Bundi, Pushkar, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Orchha & Tordi Garth. I understand the urge to see as much as possible when traveling, but consider even just basing yourself in one or two places for your entire trip. For example, consider an ayruvedic homestay in Mysore, a yoga retreat in Rishikesh, or volunteering at a reputable NGO. A viable alternative to visiting India but still getting a feel for India would be to consider Sri Lanka or Nepal. These are India’s slightly less intense neighbor’s that are a little bit more Buddhist. I think having a stronger Buddhist influence and being surrounded by Ocean( Sri Lanka) & Mountains ( Nepal) makes them a little more easy going than India and will be a good first time visit to South Asia if worried India may be too intense.

6.) Poverty

There is no getting around this one, the abject poverty in India is heartbreaking. It’s an unfortunate reality of the developing world, and it is a painful reminder of how privileged you are to be able to not only travel, but to have a roof over your head, and food in your belly. If you cannot handle facing the realities of poverty you may not enjoy India. I think the saddest realization is there is not really anything you can do. I do not recommend giving out money as it will incentivize more begging and it makes them dependent on tourist donations. I usually will have a bundle of bananas in my bag and if a hungry child comes up to me begging I will give them a banana. During my undergraduate studies I spent a winter break taking a class on microfinancing and it’s impact on uplifting Indians out of abject poverty.

Deep in a rural village in Karnataka leaning about microfinancing and economic development

7.) Hustle/sales culture in India

The pressure of the salesman and hustlers is probably the main reason travelers walk away from India with a bad taste in their mouth. In preparation for hustlers/scammers watch some youtube videos on popular scams in India and familiarize yourself. If someone is ever too nice or tells you something is closed they are trying to scam you. In India, NOTHING is free even is someone tells you it is. Unfortunately, even if you ask someone for directions or to take a picture and you are in a touristy area they will ask for bakhsheesh(small tip). When it comes to the salesman instead of letting it bother me, I find it funny how good the Indians are at selling their product, it’s part of their culture. Be firm but polite and do not show any interest. There will be times when you will have to be cold hearted and shoo them away like dogs, it is what it is. When a government doesn’t have the ability to take care of it’s poor and it’s a heavily touristed area it creates an unpleasant hustle culture. You will have much more pleasant and genuine interactions with locals in less touristy areas. However in a touristy area be very wary as most interactions are unlikely genuine and have underlying sales incentives. Having a g u ide with you helps deter the unwanted attention from hustlers and salesman.

8.) Staring & Spitting

The staring from Indian’s can feel quite intense, but you gotta just realize staring is not rude to them and not let it bother you. Indians have strong stares, but they are probably just curious since you are a traveler. Stare back at them and hit them with the crazy eyes. The spitting is gross and unfortunately very common. In setting your expectations it is a very unfortunate reality that you will get accidently spit on atleast once in your trip to India. I don’t understand this one, and always hear people hawking up the biggest spits in the mornings when I’m sleeping. I would think it’s due to growing up with bad air quality, but not sure.

10.) Preparation/packing

I am big fan of the rolling carry on suit case in every country in the world accept India. It is best to use a backpackers backpack. When you are trying to hail a tuk-tuk or navigate to your hotel in a chaotic street with a rolling suit case it is quite challenging and you will end up just carrying the suit case anyway. Pack light and buy some local clothes at the beginning of your trip for cheap so you look like a hippy living in India. I’m not going to do an itemized packing list because there are plenty of those on the internet.

11.) Female harassment

Unfortunately, this is a far too common issue amongst female travelers. I cannot speak too much to the issue because I am a male and I don’t know what it’s like. But, I’ve traveled to India with other females and have heard of some bad experiences You will likely get unwelcome stares or even possible gropes. Some helpful tips, avoid large crowd gatherings such as Holi Festival when by yourself, dress modestly, be vigilant on sleeper trains and move cabins if in a compartment with all men, if you are traveling with another guy and even if he is not your husband just say he is to other Indians to avoid them creepy hitting on you, also having a guide will help deter any creeps. Not all Indians are creeps, just sometimes some uneducated really horny guys can be pushy.

12.) Food safety

No one wants Delhi Belly to knock them out for a week or two of their trip… that would be terrible, so be cautious when eating. Unfortunately, I recommend avoiding 95% of street food. Just to be safe since India’s hygiene standards are not up to western standards and it’s so cheap anyways I only recommend eating at restaurants with actual kitchens and that have locals eating there. Just do as the locals do and hopefully you will be fine. If you do happen to get food poisoning I would recommend going to a private hospital sooner than later. India’s private hospitals are world class and really affordable, they will help get you back on your feet asap with some Ciproflaxin and IV drip. I actually recommend eating the yogurts and lassi’s to get your stomach the necessary local probiotics and cultures. It is best to have some immodium and pepto for lesser serious stomach flare ups. I’ve had bouts of diarreah and stomach flare ups but never a serious case of Delhi belly when traveling India. Take it slow, don’t go Bizarre Foods on day 1 and slowly ease your stomach into Indian cuisine. Consider even going vegetarian as it is very common in India and sometimes the meat can cause stomach issues. Main takeaway, if there are a lot of locals eating there it is fine, if it’s a sketchy desolate street food stall do not eat there.

13.) Stray dogs/ monkeys/ cows

You will see stray dogs, monkeys, & cows very frequently. It is pretty wild to see a cow in a crowded subway but cows are holy in Hinduism and therefore they are not slaughtered and are free to roam- every cow has an owner somewhere, even though they appear to be roaming free in the cities. You do not need to worry about the cows, except watching for their poop. The monkeys are generally harmless but be cautious when you have food, they can steal your food and people have even been bit, so do not mess with the monkeys and it’s advised to not stare directly in their eyes. The stray dogs can pack together and you really need to be careful, especially wandering alone at night. I have had to throw a stone at an aggressive dog before, be careful of stray dogs and avoid any alleyways where there appear to be dogs packing together.

14.) Littering:

The littering problem in one of the most densely populated country in the world is terrible. It can be frustrating to see how normalized littering is in Indian society. You do have to realize that the average Indian is not educated on how bad littering is and it is not viewed as negatively as it is in the west. A lot of Indians throw their trash in the rivers and think it just gets washed away with no ramifications to the environment. When I was in Mysore on a guided tour I could not find a trash can for a plastic cup, the guide took my cup and just threw it over his shoulder and didn’t think twice about it. I hope the next generation of Indians are more educated and do a better job of disposing their trash properly and limiting their single use plastics.

15.) Avoid traveling too cheaply

You can really travel very cheaply in India, but it will be uncomfortable and you will probably get sick. Staying in super budget hotels or hostels and sticking to street food will be an unpleasant experience for most westerners. I usually stay in decent western hotel brands because they are really good value compared to hotel prices in the west and they are a welcome respite from the chaos. It really makes a trip to India much more enjoyable when you have a quality comfortable hotel to escape the heat and chaos. I also generally avoid most street food and eat only at sit-down restaurants, just because I do not want to get Delhi Belly. If you want to eat street food I’d recommend joining a street food tour.

16.) Final Thoughts

Now that I’ve set your expectations and you are aware of all the negatives associated with traveling India, go enjoy the positives because the positives completely outweigh all the negatives I’ve mentioned. While this post may provide a negative tone towards traveling in India, I am merely making people aware so they aren’t disappointed. India is the most impactful place I’ve ever traveled and will continue to go back throughout my life.

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