When most people think of a Mexican holiday, they picture drinking pina coladas at an all inclusive resort on the coast. This is not that kind of Mexican holiday. This is for travelers who want to experience authentic Mexican culture and get a feel for the real Mexico. I would argue Mexico is the most underrated backpacking destination in the world. Mexico is very accessible from the United States, very affordable, the food/mezcal is amazing, the culture is rich, and is safer than stereotyped. I have visited Mexico 6 times and I try and go every year. If you are looking to get out of the tourist resorts and experience the beautiful and traditional side of Mexico while staying safe, then follow this itinerary for your next Mexican holiday. This itinerary assumes a multi-city ticket, flying into Puerto Vallarta and flying home from Oaxaca(can also do it in reverse)- both have international airports and are well connected to the United States. Due to limited time we will by flying from destination to destination seeing the highlights as Mexican domestic flights are super cheap. If you have more time you can easily do this overland and see way more along the way as the bus system is surprisingly good.

Day 1: Fly into Vibrant Pacific Coastal City-Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta is a beautiful coastal city located in Jalisco, Mexico, known for its stunning beaches, lively atmosphere, and rich cultural heritage. With its picturesque views of the Bay of Banderas and the surrounding Sierra Madre mountains, it offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and urban charm. Puerto Vallarta is a popular tourist destination, but not as touristy/expensive as Cancun or Cabo. Puerto Vallarta has resort style accommodation and chain hotels in the Hotel Zone, as well as authentic casa particulars in the Romantic zone backing up the surrounding mountains.

Sunsets over the Pacific in Puerto Vallarta

Where to stay: I have stayed in a resort in the Hotel Zone as well as an Airbnb in a casa particular in the Romantic Zone. I personally prefer the Romantic Zone, but if it’s your first time independently traveling Mexico consider staying at in the Hotel Zone to warm yourself up to traveling in Mexico. If considering Hotel Zone I recommend the Sheraton Buganvilias Resort as it’s in the south of the Hotel Zone and still walking distance to El Centro/Romantic zone. You can uber pretty easily all around Mexico.

View from the Sheraton in the Hotel Zone

What to do: Orientation walk around the Malecon and the surrounding area. Check out the main beach Playa Los Muertos. Visit the Church of Guadeloupe, wander the Romantic zone and do some shopping, get some good shrimp tacos and Pacifico beers near Los Arcos and watch the sunset. Go clubbing at one of the Malecon clubs after sunset if you’re into that, a lot of fun clubs on the main strip across from the Malecon.

Day 2: Day Trip to Yelapa Beach

Where to stay: Hotel Zone or Romantic Zone

What to do: There are three great day trip opportunities from Puerto Vallarta and unfortunately with limited time I recommend only taking one. The three main options are Sayulia, San Pancho, and Yelepa. I have done all three. Yelepa was my favorite and it was a pleasantly simple boat ride to access. San Pancho was my second favorite it was about an hour and a half drive north and it is really quaint pueblo magico right on the beach. Sayulita was my least favorite it was a little too touristy and overhyped, I hired a driver and visited Sayulita and San Pancho in one day trip since they are adjacent pueblos which was pretty easy and affordable. If you’re short on time, go with Yelepa. You can head to the main pier at Playa Los Muertos and catch a 45 min water taxi to Yelapa. You will see signs all over the place selling tickets near Playa Los Muertos pier and it is very easy to figure out in person. It’s a beautiful ride. Take the 8 or 10 am boat. Yelepa is only accessible by boat and is surrounded by lush jungle with no international development and minimal amenities. I recommend renting a chair and enjoying the pristine beach with some cocktails. You can do ATV and waterfall hiking in the surrounding jungle as well. Head back in the late afternoon on the water taxi. If you are fancying a really nice dinner consider Casa Kimberly for a highly rated dinner in a well preserved historical hotel with beautiful views. Or eat at one of the more lively restaurants right behind Los Muertos beach.

Historical Casa Kimberly Hotel and Restaurant

Day 3: Free Day in Puerto Vallarta

Where to stay: Hotel Zone or Romantic Zone

What to do: Today is the last full day in Puerto Vallarta, so soak in with whatever you’d like. If there was anything mentioned in Day 1 itinerary that you did not have time for or want to do again. Consider a street food tour or a jungle tour. Evening hike up the Mirador el Cerro de la Cruz for epic views of the sunsetting over the Bay of Banderas

Day 4: Quick direct flight to Mexico City

It is really cheap and easy to fly within Mexico. See screenshot below of examples.

I recommend flying into MEX opposed to NLU because it’s much closer to Mexico City.

Where to stay: La Condesa neighborhood. It is a safe, upscale area with lots of trendy bars and restaurants in a great location.

What to do: Head to Zocalo square and admire Tenochtitlan ruins & Mexico City Cathedral- you can metro or uber from La Condesa. This is the main square in the capital of Mexico and a great place to people watch and admire the history. After wandering around Zocalo square and the surrounding area walk a couple blocks west to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, an iconic building in Mexico City. Next walk a few blocks south to La Ciudadela market. This is a traditional Mexican market where you can get lost for hours shopping. I actually got lost in here and stumbled upon a Lucha Libre local match and we were the only tourists watching, the locals were very friendly and happy to see us attending. After seeing the above highlights of the historical centro neighborhood head back to La Condesa for some top tier mezcal and quality Mexican food. Mexico City’s food scene is world class. Probably my most enjoyed part of Mexico City is eating in the markets and trying the different Mezcals. If you have the energy La Condesa neighborhood has good nightlife scene as well. I never felt unsafe in Mexico City or in this entire itinerary.

Lucha Libre match in La Ciudadela Market

Day 5: Mexico City

Where to stay: La Condesa

What to do: Take a morning stroll around Chapultepec park right next to La Condesa. Then head over to the Anthropology Museum within Chapultepec park. This museum has the best Mayan exhibits the world and is worth visiting, if you prefer art to Mayan history consider the Frida Kahlo Museum instead. Afterwards continue your walk to the Angel of Independence monument, this famous landmark commemorates Mexico’s independence from Spain. In the afternoon, visit the Xochimilco canals. Take a colorful trajinera boat ride through the canals while enjoying traditional music and food. It's a fun and festive experience that showcases Mexico's cultural heritage. Head back to La Condesa for tacos and mezcal.

Day 6: Teotihuacan

Where to stay: La Condesa

What to do: Morning day trip to Teotihuacan. Teotihuacan are pre Aztec pyramids about an hour ride for an easy day trip from Mexico city. It inspired the sacrificial pyramid in Apocalypto. Climb up the steep Moon pyramid and feel like your back in pre-Columbian Mesoamerica. The steps you climb up had many decapitated heads have rolled down as sacrifice to the gods, pretty crazy. You can either Uber there or take a comfy cheap bus. The buses leave from Autobuses del Norte bus station and are safe, cheap, and comfortable. The buses leave every hour and there is an information desk to help you buy a ticket, it’s very straightforward at the station. Of all the Mayan ruins in Mexico and Central America I believe Teotihuacan is the best. After exploring head back via the same bus to Mexico City. Take an evening food tour of one of Mexico City’s famous markets.

Day 7: Quick Direct Flight to Oaxaca

Very easy and affordable to fly within Mexico

Where to stay: Casa Ollin Bed & Breakfast. Amazing b&b with rooftop, tile pool, quality breakfast, and great location/hosts.

What to do: Head to the Templo Santo Domingo and walk around the Zocalo square. Then head to Mercado Benito Juarez. Consider signing up for a food tour of this market as it can be difficult to navigate with limited Spanish, I was really lost in translation in the meat hall, but friendly locals helped me out. Try some chapulinos, Oaxacan chocolate, and make sure to check out the meat hall section. After walking the highlights of Oaxaca’s centro district round out the night at a rooftop mezcalerita which are abundant in Oaxaca.

Day 8: Day trip to Hierve el Agua & Tlacolula

Where to stay: Casa Ollin Bed & Breakfast

What to do: I recommend hiring a driver for a a day trip to Hierve el Agua- the petrified waterfall & Tlacolula- an indigenous market town. These two attractions are close by and worth hiring a driver/guide in order to see both. If you do not want to hire a driver/guide you can take the local bus to Tlacolula but it was kind of challenging to navigate with limited Spanish, so I recommend a driver/guide. Hiking a petrified waterfall and then hitting up an authentic indigenous market is a solid day.

Day 9: Oaxaca- Monte Alban

Where to stay: Casa Ollin Bed & Breakfast

What to do: Take a morning trip to Monte Alban ruins. These are about 30 minutes away from Oaxaca and easily reachable via public bus or uber. I recommend the bus as it’s way cheaper and includes your return trip. Head to the Central de Abastos, the city's main bus terminal, and look for buses going to Monte Albán. Monte Alban is not as impressive as Teotihuacan it’s definitely still worth visiting. In the afternoon take it easy at your b&b pool and wander around the centro area for a nice dinner.

Day 10: Oaxaca- Mezcal distillery

Where to stay: Casa Ollin Bed & Breakfast

What to do: Take it easy this morning and enjoy the b&b’s pool and rooftop. I really enjoyed hanging out at Casa Ollin when I was relaxing, as it is a traditional Oaxacan bed and breakfast. Later in the day, head to a Mezcal distillery to celebrate your last day in Mexico. There are plenty of Mezcal distilleries in Oaxaca that will give you a production tour and let you taste test. This blue agave plant used to distill the Mezcal only grows naturally in Southwest Mexico area-Oaxaca & Jalisco. You can see the production from the raw blue agave plant to the Mezcal. Enjoy your final dinner at a the rooftop restaurant across from the Templo de Santo Domingo for a traditional Oaxacan dinner.

Day 11: Fly Home

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